PDA

View Full Version : KONICA 7145



t
08-12-2007, 08:08 PM
THIS ONE IS DRIVING ME CRAZY. TRAY 1 JAMMING. IT HAD A BUSTED GEAR FOR TRAY 1, THE ONE WITH TEETH CUT OUT ON THE FRONT AND REAR SIDE OF IT AND THE LITTLE GEAR ABOVE IT. REPLACED THEM BOTH AND IT FEELS LIKE THERE IS A DRAG ON IT FROM WHERE I DO NOT KNOW, CAN'T FIND IT. SOMETIMES THE SOLENOID ENERGIZES TO ROTATE THE GEAR AND GETS BOUND UP, I CAN'T GET IT TO RUN FREELY. I REMOVED THE WORM GEAR BETWEEN THE GEAR PACK AND THIS MISSING TOOTH GEAR AND THERE IS NO BIND. SO I TOOK A CLOSER LOOK INTO THE GEAR PACK BUT NOTHING. IS THIS BEING HELD UP FROM SOMEWHERE IN THE FEED SYSTEM? NOTHING OUT OF PLACE OR WORN OUT IN TRAY 1 PF AREA. I REPLACED THE PRIMARY ASSLY, FEED ASSLY AND KICK BACK ASSLY TOO. WHERE TO GO WITH THIS ONE? ANY HELP APPRECIATED. THANKS T


THANKS T

DaveMcKay
08-13-2007, 07:47 PM
Did you also replace the two-part gear, also in that same chain, to the left of the two gears mentioned. ? There's an improved one for that model. The two part numbers are 40LA17490 and ...480. They can jam inside each other. They should be completely free, with a little rotational play. It's also possible to install the wrong spring-loaded lift gear. The one for the lower drawer looks identical until you examine them together closely. The one for the lower tray has a black lift cam on the back, the one for the top tray's cam is white. The drive teeth have a different pattern. The correct gear is 26NA-1681.

energy independence

jeffreyclay
08-13-2007, 08:06 PM
Dave is correct. Pay special attention to the two part coupled gear. If their interior shaft hole is hogged out due to wear they will bind easily. Wipe down the shafts with alcohol to remove any plastic resin coating the shafts.
Recently we've been replacing the shaft that drives the paper feed from the small gear you mentioned. A mild bend from loads can cause this to be a headache.

t
08-15-2007, 08:40 PM
bushing behind the copuler gear was binding me up. thanks guys. by the way pain in the ***. shoot this engineer

THANKS T

newcanontech
08-18-2007, 09:13 PM
first time i replaced those gear, I said exactly the same thing: "shoot the engineer". you will get used to it ... use some grease for the c-clip :) The tires do not last more than 30 k and replace the three of them at the same time. Have fun!
i am glad I work for canon now :)

newcanontech
08-19-2007, 06:56 PM
now that you mentioned it, I used to leave only 1 coil out of 5. I also learned in a hard way that the pick up roller, even it might look like brand new, can cause paper jam and certain code I do not remember now. They kept moving from black to grey color and so on. The hub for the feed roller was updated to a thicker one ...
the toner gear in the back goes too , but I feel sorry for the techs that have to replace the squeaking bushing in the fuser driving shaft ...

This message was edited by newcanontech on 8-20-07 @ 9:05 AM

DaveMcKay
08-19-2007, 07:00 PM
There's some good, new information in this string of posts. First, I didn't know the tilt and feed shaft could bend and lose torque. Then, I didn't know there was a vulnerable (the whole design is vulnerable, as was declared) bushing back there. There are two bushings on that back plate, a brass one and another gray-material one. I'd be interested to know which one of the two bushings was binding. Also, don't know if you techs are familiar with, what I call, "the New Zealander's (a company down there, desparate to make these d*mn things work, did some experimenting) procedures", tricks for improving pickup from the trays. One of things they did was to reduce the double feed resistance of the lower double feed roller, by removing three of the five coils on the torque limiter spring. They also recommend not using the newer brown plastic drive gears, rather, using the white originals. I've never tried to use, or order any of the white gears. This area, paper pickup drive, is the Achilles heel of this machine family. One other problem area is the gimpy document feeder.

energy independence

DaveMcKay
08-20-2007, 07:59 PM
As those reduced-coil torque limiters age, they kindof migrate to one end, and wallow out a trough in their arbors. They need re-lubricating, maybe replacing. I'm thinking of just taking two coils off. The coils are a weird metallurgy, like there's no temper in them, i.e., you bend 'em, they stay bent. When you cut/ reduce them, try not to take them completely off of their arbors, otherwise, rest of the day trying to get them back on.

energy independence